Back to Addis part 2

This new road, from Soddo to Addis, is called Alaba Road, after a tribe that is easily recognized by their tall hats.

There are many more muslims in these towns than on the old road. For some time, the Saudis had a real push to build mosques, and one town we drove through, Warabe, has 10 of them. Like a small South Carolina town, "church" on every corner. Since we drove through on Fridays both trips, we saw many people dressed for services at the mosque. You do see some women completely covered, but most show their faces and dress more colorfully. Muslim communities in the country are often easy to identify because there will be two or more houses in a compound that look almost identical, due to Mohammad's command to provide equally for each wife in a family.

Muslim homestead

one of the smaller Warabe mosques

leaving the mosque

covered

Both mosques and orthodox churches boast blown out, scratchy loudspeakers, and in most places, the call to prayer competes with chants in the ancient language of Ge'ez. This was especially true this Easter week, as often the chanting went on all night.

teff harvest

This is also the time of harvest, so everywhere you see evidence of teff, the grain used to make injera, the pancake-like bread that is served with most meals. Teff is a sort of "super grain," loaded with nutrients like calcium and vitamin C. It's tiny, similar to poppy seeds, and is harvested by hand with a small scythe.

plowing the field

mounds of harvested teff

transporting teff

Another common food crop is enset, or false banana. This one is not so nutritious, but is widely grown. It is native to the area, and extremely drought tolerant. Often the leaves are used to help carry goods, like for holding pottery on the way to market. Fibers from the plant are used in creating many items, from mats to fencing.

enset, known as false banana, by house

Another popular crop is khat (pronounced "chat"), which is a hallucinogenic, but legal, drug. It is sold in bunches, and the fresh leaves are chewed.

tall khat plants

Close to Addis, we passed an extinct volcano, mount Zuqualla. It has a crater lake that I would like to visit one day, with an island that once housed a monastery. The Oromo people who live there have a terrific proverb that says,

"Those who live far away worship it, those who live nearby plow it."